10 Days in Cuba

It’s tough to figure out how to even begin this post, seeing as the trip it’s about was unlike anything else we’ve ever done. I guess that’s as good as an introduction as it’ll get. Meg and I just got back from 10 incredible, overwhelming and very hot days in Cuba. We spent most of the time in Havana, staying in a Casa Particular (B&B) next door to my brother Jonas’ place. Jonas has been in Cuba for 6 ½ years studying medicine at the Latin American School of Medicine (ELAM) and this was the first time I had the opportunity to visit him. He’s graduating in July and coming back to the States, so this was essentially our last chance.

There are a lot of misconceptions about Cuba, Cubans and Cuban-life in general. While it’s fair to describe much of the infrastructure, housing and transportation in the country as in pretty poor shape, people and life are not poor and most people are not unhappy. Life is not ‘hard.’ The standard of living is certainly lower than what most of us in the ‘first world’ are used to, but everyone has enough food, a roof over their heads, gets a free education, free healthcare and all the other necessities. For better or worse, the Cuban work ethic is nowhere near as intense as most of us are used to, and as a result the majority of Cubans don’t have to spend most of their lives working and have plenty of free time to enjoy themselves. The state-controlled economic and political system has more than its fair share of problems, not just to ‘first world’ outsiders looking in but to Cubans living there, as well, but Cuba is not the totalitarian, depressed wasteland that is often depicted in the U.S. media. I could write for hours about this, but seeing as it’s supposed to be a postcard I’m going to keep it at that.

We got to see a lot of Havana that most tourists don’t, since Jonas and his girlfriend took us around to their favorite places. We ate lunch and dinner at tiny restaurants being run out of people’s homes and garages; we walked through neighborhoods full of crumbling post-colonial apartment buildings but also full of life – dominos being played on a stoop, impromptu soccer games on the street; Meg even got a tour of the maternity hospital where Jonas was finishing up a rotation (I wasn’t allowed in!). We lucked out with the weather – plenty of sun and temperatures in the 80s and above Fahrenheit. We all took a day trip down to the Bay of Pigs, with stops at a recreated native-Cuban village (and hotel) called Guamá and at a crocodile farm. We happened to be going just a few days before the anniversary of the attempted invasion (known in Cuba as “La Batalla de Girón” after the beach where it took place) and there was a lot of activity in preparation for the annual celebrations. Meg and I also went a bit out of our wheelhouse of backpacking vacations and spent 2  days at a beachside resort in the Varadero peninsula, home to a dozen plus all-inclusive resorts. It was great getting to spend all day relaxing on the beach, snorkeling, and swimming, but the resort scene is definitely not for us. I feel sorry for the people who only go to these places and never see an authentic side of Cuba.

Needless to say, the trip was an extraordinary experience and one that definitely stands out. I would really encourage anyone who can to go and visit for themselves.

We have plenty of other stories but we’ll save that for when we (hopefully) see you all! There lot of photographs this time, it was just too tough to decide what to post.

A Romanian Wedding

Last week we traveled to western Romania for my cousin’s wedding. He worked in Romania for a number of years, met a Romanian and though they live in Germany now, they had the wedding in her hometown.

We had a great time, despite an incredibly long day getting there (5 hour flight delay!). It was an amazing experience getting to take part in a Romanian wedding celebration, though it required quite a bit of stamina – the ceremony was at 4p, the reception started at 7p and the main course wasn’t served til 2a! The weather was gorgeous, though, and there was plenty of wine and dancing.

It was equally amazing to see and explore an area in eastern Europe not heavily trafficked by tourists. The city we flew into, Timişoara, was the site of the first demonstrations against Communist dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu that quickly led to his overthrow and execution in December 1989. 20+ years later and many signs of the communist, Soviet-style architecture and infrastructure still exist. One of the cities we drove through, Resita, used to be a major iron producing hub (apparently iron for the Eiffel Tower was produced here) and the city is a mixture of high-rise Soviet-style apartment buildings and huge industrial factories, all connected by an elevated track. It looked like something out of a graphic novel.

We took a small road trip the day after the wedding with family, driving into the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains for some amazing views, swimming in a mountain lake and Papanași (Romanian pastry) at an old resort hotel nearby. Our last day in the country we spent wandering (and sweating – 90 degress F!) around Timişoara itself. It’s a very interesting mix of eastern European and old Viennese architecture and ambience. It has several large squares lined with baroque/rococo buildings, and these are surrounded by rather bleak and boring concrete buildings.

All in all a very interesting trip!

Éire, Part One

We just finished up our first 7 days on The Emerald Isle, and unbelievably we haven’t seen a drop of rain yet. Sadly, we had to say goodbye to our friends JM & Talia – who visited us in Berlin and then traveled with us through Ireland until this morning when they flew back to NY.
We arrived in Dublin on Monday evening, spent the day in the city on Tuesday, then rented a car and made our way south and west starting Wednesday. We stopped at the impressive Powerscourt Gardens and an ancient monastic ‘city’ at Glendalough in the Wicklow Mountains, stayed overnight in Kilkenny (right next to the Smithwick’s brewery!), and then made our way further west to the Dingle Peninsula (with a stop at the Rock of Cashel) on Thursday. We took a leisurely driving tour of the Peninsula on Friday, and spent the evening at a pub listening to ‘trad’ Irish music and getting some travel advice from a very nice (and very drunk) local fisherman. On Saturday we drove up to Galway, with stops at the Loop Head Lighthouse and cliffs (taller than the Cliffs of Moher, and no bus tours!) and The Burren. Meg and I are in Galway and environs for the next two days before we travel to Northern Ireland and then back to Dublin. We’ll send another postcard next week!

Kölle Alaaf, Alaaf!

Wow. Though we were in Cologne for Karneval (Carnival/Mardi Gras/Etc) four years ago, we were only in town for a day or two and didn’t really experience much of Kölner Karneval. This year, we took the train down and arrived in the city on Saturday – the height of party time. The city goes absolutely nuts – drinking, singing (and more singing), crazy costumes- generally fighting off the cold and grey any way possible. Karneval time in the Rhineland is a little like Halloween in the States in that people get dressed up and there’s a lot of candy given out (though here it’s at 3-hour long parades where you have sweets thrown at you by old men dressed up as Napoleonic soldiers).

We danced and drank at a Brauhaus Saturday night (in costume, naturally – Meg was a man, I was a woman – don’t ask); Sunday we met up with some old friends for a parade in Sürth, where I grew up (I was a clown, Meg was some sort of rat princess); Monday is “Rosenmontag” (Rose Monday/Shrove Monday) and is the biggest day of German Karneval- we went to the big parade in the nearby town of Bonn, former capital of West Germany (I was burned out, Meg was a tree); Tuesday we actually got to be in a parade- we were part of the last float in a neighborhood parade in the “Südstadt” of Cologne (I was some sort of Elizabethan Viking, Meg was a tree again).

As they say in Kölsch (a dialect spoken only around Cologne) – “Alaaf!

Two Weeks on Lake Como

This post is a bit delayed, but I guess I needed two weeks to recuperate before I wrote about my two weeks in Italy for work (5 days of which, thankfully, were with Meg). From November 8th to 23rd, I was working for a conference/summit on philanthropy at Villa Serbelloni in the tiny village of Bellagio, which is at the end of a peninsula sticking into Lake Como in Northern Italy. Villa Serbelloni is sprawling estate covering most of the tip of the peninsula and is owned by The Rockefeller Foundation, which was co-presenting the summit. Leave it to me to complain about spending 15 days in a beautiful lakeside Italian village and villa, but to be fair I had to spend most of my time working. Nonetheless, the area was gorgeous and I did have some opportunities to venture out with my camera and explored the town and some of the other towns on the coast of the lake. November is very quiet on Lake Como since it’s really more of a summer destination for tourists. The area actually gets quite cold (it is in the foothills of the Italian Alps), so while it was great not having to deal with mobs of people, it also meant there wasn’t a lot going on and the weather was pretty chilly.
A bunch of us working at the summit pooled our resources and hired a boat for a two-hour tour of the lake one day (and thankfully we didn’t get marooned on a sitcom). Meg joined me for the last few days, which was great. We “hiked” a gorge in the town of Bellano (while it is rather deep, it’s not very big), got to ride on an old school hydrofoil ferry and spent our last day before flying out walking around the middle of Milan, the closest big city. Milan’s cathedral is enormous and one of the biggest and most lavish we’ve seen during our travels (and we went to St. Peter’s last year!). All in all, it was an enjoyable experience (especially since I got paid to be there), but I’m very happy to be settled back in Berlin!